From what you described, it sounds like you may have something wired incorrectly, or a bad ground somewhere.
First you will want to use something like the Draw-Tite Circuit Tester Kit # 40376 to double check the black wire you grounded. Typically the black wire will be the 12 volt power wire, so I highly suggest double checking it. Flipping the 12 volt wire with the ground wire, which is usually the white wire, may be causing the brakes to act weird.
This will also lead me to the next... view full answer...
What it sounds like is going on is that you have the wires from your trailer run backwards to the two illumination circuits of your trailer.
This would explain why when the running lights are on the blinkers and stop lights aren't functioning.
Since the harness of the lights has three wires you will need to make sure you are using all three of the wires. The running lights of your trailer should run to the wire on the lights that activates the lower intensity and the stop/turn circuit... view full answer...
There were a few bugs with the 2005-2006 factory brake controllers on Ford trucks. GM experienced the same situation when they introduced OEM controllers for the 2006 model year. A lot of those folks ended up replacing the problematic OEM units with aftermarket controllers. If you want to get the factory controller working, your best bet is to search the web and online forums or contact your dealer or Ford. We do not know much about those OEM units would not be able provide good trouble... view full answer...
If the correct wiring adapter is being used, part # C51322, then you most likely have a missing or blown fuse on the circuit that feeds power to the brake controller. Look in the power distribution box under the hood. The fuse the protects that circuit is in position 21, and it's a 30amp maxi-fuse. If the fuse is blown, you could have a short in your existing 7-way connector. If that's the case, you'll want to replace the trailer connector with part # 20023. view full answer...
The four wires coming from your Tekonsha Envoy trailer brake controller will be for the following functions:
White for ground.
Black for 12V power.
Blue for brake output.
Red for stop light switch.
I was not able to confirm the wire colors and their function for the built-in harness in your 1993 Ford F-250. The only way to verify that you have made the correct connections is to simply test them for their function with a circuit tester like # PTW2993.
The fact that the controller is... view full answer...
That lead is fused. Take a look in the power distribution box under the hood. There should be two blue maxi fuses that protect the power supply for the brake controller, and the 12-Volt accessory circuit to the trailer connector.
Your owners manual should be able to provide the specific fuse location. If the fuse is missing or blown, install or replace it.
If you should decide that you wish to wire the controller directly to 12-Volt power, I would recommend running a circuit directly... view full answer...
The OL or Overload error code is displayed when the brake circuit is drawing too much current, possibly caused by a short on the brake wire or a poor ground connection at the brake magnets.
I would recommend examining the brake output wire on your trailer. Look for a pinched brake output wire, or any worn or cracked insulation that would allow the copper conductor to short to the trailer frame or other metal. Also check the grounding points for the brake magnets to ensure that one lead... view full answer...
A brake controller will send our a small amount of test voltage that can sense the resistance from the brake magnets and determine if a trailer is plugged in. When the brake controller fails to 'read' the trailer, it's typically caused by one of three things:
• A damaged or corroded trailer connector on the truck can prevent the signal described above from
reaching the trailer brake magnets. If you see any green or white corrosion on the pins of the connector,
there's a good possibility... view full answer...
The Edge Diesel Evolution CTS3 Performance Tuner # EP96TR will deliver the most power and torque gains in your 1996 Ford F-250 with 7.3L V8 Diesel. Increases can be as much as 180 additional horsepower and up to 440-ft-lbs of additional torque.
This tuner is legal in all 50 states. view full answer...
The E1 error code on the 47284 brake controller - which is the Hopkins Reliance - indicates a trailer not connected. So getting this error when you are hooked up means there is an issue either with your trailer connectors or possibly a short on the blue brake wire.
Many times that can be attributed to one of your connectors having corrosion or possibly some type of debris interfering with the signal so start by taking a look at your connectors and clean the corrosion if necessary. This... view full answer...
I can help you troubleshoot your brake controller issue.
Sounds like water is getting into the 7-way connector between your connection. You will want to find a way to seal that off better, I have heard of people using electrical tape to wrap the connection to prevent water from getting in during wet weather. You may also consider replacing the connector with one like the Hopkins # HM48480, this connector has a foam seal that will help with weather seeping in.
Another thing that may... view full answer...
If it is really a 6-Way and not a 7-Way blade style trailer connector then the center pin being hot would indicate that particular pin is the 12 volt power circuit. But the other functions not working could mean that tow package wiring fuses and/or relays are missing or need to be replaced. Check the truck owners manual to find the locations of any and all fuses related to the tow package wiring.
If the wiring was added and is not factory then you will need to check the wiring connections... view full answer...
It sounds like everything is working correctly except that your top LED light is only flashing with the left turn signal and not the right turn signal.
If your center light is wired like the Thinline LED Trailer Tail Light # STL59RB with the White wire for Ground, the Black wire for the Tail/Running Lights, and the Red wire for a Turn Signal, it will only flash with whichever turn signal you have it wired to.
Attaching both the Right Turn/Stop (typically Green wire) and Left Turn/Stop... view full answer...
I would start by using a circuit tester, item # PTW2993 if needed, to check the wiring going to and coming from the brake controller. There are 4 wires that will need to be checked.
White - Ground
Red - Stoplight Switch
Black - 12 Volt Constant Power
Blue - Brake Feed to Trailer Brakes
First, make sure the ground wire is attached to a clean, paint and rust-free chassis ground. Next, connect the circuit testers alligator clip to the ground and check the black 12-volt wire going into the... view full answer...
What does the display read when you press the pedal? Does the same problem occur when you use the manual brake lever on the unit?
My contact at Draw-Tite recommends disconnecting the blue wire from the brake controller. If the display reads correctly when you disconnect the blue wire, then the issue might be that this wire is shorted, which should give the brake controller a read out of O L.
The other issue may be that the black power wire to the controller might not be connected firmly... view full answer...
From my research, it looks like you will need to access the fuse panel. This is located on the lower edge of the instrument panel and can be removed by pulling on the handle to disengage the fasteners. The circuit breaker that you will be looking for is a 30 Amp Maxi Fuse in the Power Distribution Box.
Keep in mind that if your circuit breaker has shut off, it will remain off until whatever is causing it to shut off has been fixed.
Since you are looking for the leads on your battery... view full answer...
I attached a picture that has a chart with all of the error codes for the Prodigy P2 part # 90885 that you referenced.
I am not sure what you mean by dashes on the display so hopefully the chart helps you.
Feel free to email back with pictures of the display if you need more help. view full answer...
This is bound to happen when you tow a trailer with another trailer and is likely caused the cantilever forces on the trailer frame. But you can alleviate it somewhat by making sure the tongue weight on your second trailer is not too heavy or light. Typically tongue weight should be 10 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight. A tongue weight that is too heavy would cause the rear end of the trailer to be more bouncy. Getting the trailer loaded properly will be the first thing you can... view full answer...
What you're describing is the classic symptom of a poor ground connection somewhere in your trailer lighting system. When all the functions are being used, you're drawing maximum amperage through the system, which is when a ground problem will manifest itself.
Trace the white ground wire back from the trailer connector. The wire will usually ground to the trailer frame somewhere on the trailer tongue. Make sure this connection is secure and not corroded. Each trailer lamp will also have... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Diversi-Tech regarding the problem you are having with the Self-Locking Adjustable Aluminum Ball Mount, # DTALBM7000. There are a couple of things that may be causing the slop you are experiencing in the ball mount.
First, if any sand or other find debris finds its way under those ball bearings on the top of the shank, that could cause them to not pop up all the way. What you can do is push them in and clean them with a small fine bristle brush to remove the... view full answer...
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